Melbourne & Tasmania Jan 2018 (Part 2)

We left  Marge in Melbourne just before Christmas and returned  to Sydney for Christmas and New year – this part of the blog continues after the time spent in Sydney….

From Devonport to Hobart

Thursday 4th January 2018

Brian’s cat “Buttons”

Brian kindly took  us to the airport to catch our flight back to Melbourne, we arrived back mid-afternoon. In gratitude to Brian for the lift I have included a picture of Brian’s cat – Buttons.

We were staying in the city for a few days before picking the van up from the airport. Being in the  holiday season it was  a great time to explore the city on foot and using public transport.

One of the biggest differences between Melbourne and Sydney is the  public transport system – Melbourne leaves Sydney for dead both in terms of ease of use and frequency  and an added bonus is much of it is free!

Melbourne turns out to be  Hipster heaven, not that I’ve anything against hipsters – think they’re wonderful so much so that I have been trying  to grow a hipster beard myself.  Wandering about the lanes late in the evening we ended up in what must be Hipster Central,  just sat and watched bar-tending being turned into an art-form. Much tossing and juggling of bottles and shakers – suppose I am showing my age but it all wonderfully superficial. The highlight was when our man failed to open my twist top light beer in the crook of his arm and had to resort to  bottle opener.  He’s probably been kicked out of the fraternity by now.

On the Friday went to the Triennial exhibition at the  NGA.

“The NGV Triennial explores cutting edge technologies, architecture, animation, performance, film, painting, drawing, fashion design, tapestry and sculpture” – their words not mine. .

The pot scourers was a great idea the whole display was made out of small sponge pot scourers.

There was a similar one made out of pegs and another one made out of long sponge flotation things (noodles?).

I hasten to add that these are aimed at children but I found them interesting

Red Flowers

The setting for the red flowers was a house with different rooms. Everyone was given an adhesive red flower as you entered. and you had to place the red flower anywhere – well it amused me anyway.

On Saturday it was forecast to be 40+ so we decided to take the tram to St. Kilda Beach- big mistake stayed about 10 minutes and caught the tram back – just too hot.

Sunday morning we caught the bus to Avalon to rescue Marge from the airport carpark. A little apprehensive, she had been there for over two weeks, however she was still there, intact and graffiti free. – that’s another thing about Melbourne there is some great graffiti not that we particularly wanted any on Marge.

Sunday afternoon we went down to one of the few remaining gay pubs in Australia and had a couple of light beers before a rather good Thai meal.

We also spent sometime in the evening people watching in Federation Square – home of the new Apple store(?). One of the less impressive sites was seeing young African guys being moved on for no apparent reason other than they were there.

In spite of this, the few days spent in Melbourne were interesting and relaxing, it really is a very nice city. Our NSW politicians and city planners have much to learn about making cities more liveable.

Monday 8th January 2018

Uber from the hotel to take the 09:30 ferry from Port Melbourne to Devonport.  A smooth and uneventful crossing, spent some of it planning the Tasmanian sojourn.   We had already booked one night at a campsite on the N Coast so we decided to start off by doing the North Western part of the Island..

First night spent at Turners beach, not a great site but ok.  The next day cycled to Ulverstone which we have immortalised on video

Slow Bike Riding

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As the Norwegians were the creators of Slow TV  it is only appropriate that a son of Norway should continue this exciting new media channel. If you manage to watch all the way through, despite the dramatic ending,  there were no more broken shoulders.

Ulverstone is a really nice little town, William had a scollop pie for lunch together with a Apple and Blackberry pastry all made from local produce.  Very friendly locals.

NB: I will start doing something on the improvement in our social interactions soon 🙂

Wednesday started to move westwards along the coast stopping at Penguin for coffee. Everything here is penguinesque, even the litter boxes in the streets are penguins. Had the worlds most expensive piece of Banana cake – probably contained essence of penguin.

Spent the night at Wynyard, the camp sight was run by a South African who had a house in Mosman – oh how I wish North Shore Bob was with us. Got the shock of my life when I bumped into her in the male showers at midnight!.

Next day Thursday 11th Jan decided it was time to save some money and do some real “Free Camping”. Drove to Stanley which is on a bit of a promontory on the North Coast – wasn’t quite free – $8 only problem was the wind. Stanley is nice little town where the only Tasmanian P.M. Joseph Aloysius Lyons was born  and also where some of the movie “The Light Between Oceans” was filmed. Had scollops in curry sauce pies for dinner – not the greatest.   William flew his kite on the beach.

A big tree in the Tarkine

Friday 12th Jan – decided to explore the Tarkine area so moved onto Smithton for one night before heading in land and ended up at another Free campsite at Julius River – right in the forest.  The Tarkine is part of the Savage River National Park and contains areas of Wilderness. ”

The Tarkine is noted for its beauty and natural values, containing the largest area of Gondwanan cool-temperate rainforest in Australia”

 

The Tarkine 

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We  took the bikes for a couple of trips to nearby walks through the forest, it really is quite stunning.

Monday 15th Jan From Julius River we tried to get to Cradle Mountain without going back to the coast. When we hit the link road decided it was too much for Marge – RVs rattle anyway but on a non-sealed surface they really rattle. We ended up going up the West coast  staying one night at Authur River and then turning inland to Burnie.

After free camping for several days we needed a site with amenities – particularly showers and washing machines. The campsite at Burnie was very run down so just stayed the one night but this was long enough to see the nightly ritual of Small Penguins coming ashore after a day out at sea fishing for food for their chicks

Sunset Moina

Wednesday 17th Jan  Drove to Moina where there is a great Free camping site on the shores of Lake Gairdner about 10 minutes drive from Cradle Mountain visitor centre.

From the visitor centre shuttle buses run to several spots where you can pick up walks of varying degrees of difficulty.

Wombat – Moina

We had decided to do an easy walk around Dove Lake which went really well (it is the 2nd easiest category). In fact it went so well William decided he wanted to do a bit more so we took of on the:

  • Lake Wilks Track,
  • Face Track
  • Overland Track
  • Marions Lookout Link Track.
Crater Lake – Cradle Mountain

These are all rated at hard to very hard.  Particularly the Marions Lookout Link Track which one is advised not to use because it’s “steep and very rough”- Fortunately in some places they do have chains to hang onto when scrambling over rocks.

Five hours and  1,300 metres later  we arrived back at the van. Fortunately William’s Acrophobia seems to have sorted itself out. I suppose one can only have so many issues.

Friday 19th Jan was a day at rest sitting by Lake Gairdner surrounded by wildlife including platypuses blogging.

Cradle Mt – Almost at the Summit

Saturday – Again went to Cradle Mountain and did another 5 hour walk. This time we took the easier way up as we wanted to attempt the Cradle Mountain Summit and didn’t want to be totally knackered before we reached the summit trail.

I didn’t manage to get very far up the track it was another hot day however William gave it a good crack while I stayed at base camp looking after the bags and eagerly awaiting his return.   

Willy  got almost to the top but his vertigo got the better of him  – never the less a very valiant effort.  

The Way to the Summit – Cradle Mountain 

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My Big Mistake

When we were in Melbourne we bought a scrabble set. I knew from the start this was an incredibly risky thing to do and had been delaying the purchase as long as possible.   I knew that to loose at scrabble would be akin to losing at boules but a thousand times worse.

We played for many nights and I always managed to win but eventually due to the worst tiles imaginable I lost. Needless to say life will never be the same again.  Anyone who knows William will feel my pain – he’s not the most gracious of winners.

Tall Trees – Mount Field National Park

Sunday 21st Left Cradle Mountain and moved to another national park – this time Mount Field National Park which is  SW and Australias’ oldest National Park.

We spent three nights at the camp site in the park doing a couple of walks.

The first took in the three water falls and an area of Swamp Gums. Swamp Gums  can reach up to 90 metres and are really magnificent trees. The whole walk was about 6 kms through some really nice woodland

 

Pademelons – Mount Field National Park

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Field National Park

The second walk was much more ambitious and started with a  9km uphill bike ride. Even with electric bikes it was still quite an effort.

The walk was around the peak of Mount Field East, we didn’t attempt the summit – it jut looked too hard. The walk itself took us above the tree line, across an area of marsh land before going down to the start point.

The highlight of the walk for William was the 9 kms down hill bike ride which happened without incident in spit of a top speed of 60kms/hr on what was a gravel road

Thursday 25th time to head for Hobart and Mona which we have booked for tomorrow. Didn’t realise it was Australia Day – another reason to change the date!

Old Truck – New Norfolk

On the way down, through the Derwent Valley,  passed through New Norfolk which from the out-skirts looked like a very plain small country town. However s we hadn’t any breakfast went into the town centre looking for something to eat and came across the most amazing antique / anything-old shop.

The place was spread over several buildings which previously were a school,  hospital and nurses home.

They had the most eclectic collection of stuff, including some really nice pieces of glass ware, furniture and old AV equipment. Outside there was a tremendous collection of old cars and trucks including a steam engine.

To top it off  hens and chickens were  running around in the gardening centre. – great place. Turns out was owned by Penny & Hadyn Pearce – who we think did  a TV show at some time. They certainly have a great collection of collectables.

Arrived at the Mobile Home park at the the show ground in Hobart – not the greenest/lushest of places but looks ok and the facilities are new. Plus we have air con and it’s forecast to be getting up to 36º over the weekend.

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We’ll finish this blog with one of the highlights of the trip so far – Cradle Mountain….

Cradle Mountain

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Tasmania – Jan and Feb 2018 (Part 3)

The last blog finished 2 weeks into our Tasmanian trip.  We’re still there –    and so dear reader read on…

 

From Hobart and back Devonport for the ferry

26th January 2018 – Australia Day 

We were staying at the Hobart Show Ground – aka Bunnings Hardware. (Bunnings have just bought a big chunk of the show-ground for a monster hardware store). It’s not a great place but easy to get into the the Hobart CBD.

MONA - Kittens Tea and Croquet Party
MONA – Kittens Tea and Croquet Party

We were booked to go to the  Museum of New and Old (MONA) on the 27th. January

MONA was terrific, there’s an exhibition called the Museum of Everything which has some truely amazing art. Here’s a little blurb about it

MONA - Things made from bottle tops
MONA – Bottle Tops

The  Museum of Everything is a travelling exhibition which opened in London in 2009. Its purpose is to advocate for the visibility of art that falls outside the confines of the art world proper; the work of ordinary people, working far (literally or otherwise) from the cultural metropolis

I found the stuff done by mathematicians fascinating, the attention to details and the recursive nature was mind blowing.

A new wing had recently been added to the Museum – Pharos. We pre-booked to do the Unseen Seen & Weight of Darkness exhibitions. Before entering you had to sign a waiver form and were given a red panic button – neither of which were used.

MONA – A wall of guns

Only 2 people are allowed in and you lie back looking up to a sphere which changes colours and intensity. There’s no point of reference so it becomes rather dis-orientating. Rather like one of the better mushroom experiences – apparently. Weight of Darkness is the exact opposite – you enter through a pitch black maze and find 2 chairs and then sit is absolute silence and darkness for 20 minutes. Think William got more out of it than I did, mind expansion and dis-orientation is more his thing

MONA – Carved out of Sandstone

Overall the MONA  experience was great and high on the lists of things to do again.  Interesting to see that the owner David Walsh, who made all his money from counting cards, is supporting the push in Tasmania to get rid of all poker machines from pub and clubs.  Lets hope he succeeds.

The images from MONA don’t really do the place justice but they are all our valiant photographer took.  I have included the Kittens Tea and Croquet Party for it’s sheer shock value. It actually shows the art of taxidey.

By the way, Hobart was having a heat wave – 38º.

On Saturday we cycled into Hobart – 9kms but again along great cycle tracks. Spent several hours looking round Salamanca Markets – I’m not a great market fan but enjoyed this one.  Fish and chips for lunch and then cycled home to Bunnings.

Sunday – still very hot so decided to go to the movies to get out of the heat. Willy wanted to see a newish Australian film “Swinging Safari”. Fortunately half way through the fire alarm went off – we didn’t both going back. Pepper Berry Ice Cream on the way home 

Monday – Weather turned very cold didn’t do anything exciting – I read and Willy had a day of self improvement.

Willy on the Tahune Air Walk

Tuesday 30th Jan  – I wanted to go to Port Arthur so we decided to head out of Hobart heading in general SE direction. We spent Tuesday night at Tahune  which is run by Forestry Tasmania (the badies). There are several walks and a Air Walk which allows you to walk through the canopy. It all quite interesting but propaganda for the timber industry. There seemed to be a shortage of Bob Brown books in the shop – don’t think this was because they had sold out.

Gay Rosehaven - Knitting ShopTo get to Tahune you pass through Geeveston which is the setting for the ABC comedy Rosehaven. After visiting the place you can see why it was selected.

We had a couple of nice Willy van cooked meals – Spanish Omelette with Tuna 

Wednesday – From Tahune we moved to Fortescue Bay – the  camp site got good reviews so the 12km of gravel road was an acceptable price to pay.  We got a good spot and spent three very pleasant days. There are several walks which start at the campsite.

Me at Bivouac Bay

The first one we did was to Bivouac Bay and was rather un-remarkable. Surprisingly this is one of the driest areas of Tasmania so the bush is very scrubby. The Next day  was cold and rainy so another day of reading for me and self improvement for William.  He improved so much that I beat him at 3 games of dominos and one game of scrabble. He actually changed the domino rules half way through and I still won.

Books Finished:”Our Man in Havana” 

Books Started: Keep the Aspidistra Flying

Find the climber – he’s got a red hat

Saturday the weather improved and we did a great walk to Cape Huay – about 9kms,  very up and down but fantastic scenery and well worth the effort. This is one of the “Three Capes” walks that the Tasmanian Tourist mob are spending much money on developing and they are doing a great job.

Sunday – Moved on to Port Arthur.

Monday – 5th Feb – Went to the Port Arthur Historic site and did a walking tour and a harbour tour. It’s most unfortunate that the decision to keep it as an important of part of Australia history was taken so late. Most of the building were allowed to deteriorate to an unrecoverable state plus several bush fires have decimated the site but what remains is very interesting. 

The contrast between the horrific nature  of the both the original penal colony and the 1996 massacre and the absolutely beauty of the place itself is quite remarkable.

Port Arthur from the Harbour  (apologies for the quality)

I found it strange that during the walking tour no mention was made of the 1996 massacre. I would have thought that the massacre itself and the on-going impact it still has on gun laws etc would have been worth a mention.

Talking to one of the guides it seems that there is still some resistance by descendants of the convicts to keep the place going. Some would like to expunge Port Arthur from History as it is considered a place of shame and best forgotten.

On a lighter note – On the Sunday I managed to “lose” my keys. These are the spare set for Marge and also the  bikes.  I twice retraced my steps which included a bike ride to the Port Arthur Site and enquiries to the Tourist Information and campsite reception. They  turned up the next day in the van while I was out doing the Port Arthur historic site. I think this was a real miracle.

William on the Wine Glass Bay Walk

6th Feb.  Ten days remain until we catch the ferry back to the mainland so time to start to head up the West coast. Stay the night at Swansea right on the beach. Unfortunately there is a really stiff breeze but it was great to wake up to the sounds on waves breaking on the shore. From here we moved to Coles Bay which is the town nearest to Wine Glass Bay. Manage to get another beach side site at Freycinet National Park. Unfortunately on the Wednesday the weather turned  wet so the walk to Wine Glass Bay was delayed.

As we were running out of gas (needed for cooking and refrigeration), on the way to Freycinet we called in at Bicheno. This turned out to be probably the most expensive gas on earth but we had no choice.

Bay of Fires

in Bicheno we went looking for some fresh fish for dinner – it is after all a town based on fishing (according to Lonely Planet).  We ended up down by the wharf and managed to buy some rather nice Ling and also a lobster roll for lunch. 

The ling ended up in a sweet potato and fish curry – extremely nice it was too. The lobster roll was rather lacking in lobster.

The scrabble situation is getting rather tense. I had one absolutely catastrophic loss which coincided  with a almost insatiable need for food.

 I had some great letters but my brain refused to let me use them unless they were part of a triple word or covered a triple letter  – needless to say I lost very badly and indeed my scrabble vibe was killed….. Oh these Norwegians (for anyone over 25 – look it up…)

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On The Wine Glass Bay Walk

Friday 9th Feb – The weather had improved so we decided to do the long version of the Wineglass Bay Walk.

It’s a circular route of 11Km taking about 5 hours. The first part is steep going up and then descending down into Wineglass Bay 

 From there there’s a beach walk before returning to the start point which is another steep climb from sea level. We actually did it in under 4 hours with several stops along the way. 

After the walk we headed North through St. Helens ending up at Binalong Bay (Bay of Fires)

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The Perfect Free Camping Spot – Bay of Fires

which is the start of about 30Km of beach. It was late on a  Friday evening before a long weekend in South Tasmania (we didn’t know this)  so good spots were at a premium but managed to find a quiet one and then on the Sunday we managed to find a wonderful spot right on the beach.  Just sitting there listening to the waves 

Superb Fairy-Wren (m)

crashing about 20 metres away was great – what more could one ask for. Unfortunately I’m still reading “Keep the Aspidistra Flying” so feeling a bit guilty.

As an aside, William’s social skills are much improved. Not sure if the scrabble has improved his word-power or what but he is becoming quite a chatterbox – not sure if this is good or bad – only time will tell.

We were both very sorry to leave Binalong bay, the campsite was perfect and free. Just before we left, someone gave William a whole fish which looked rather like a salmon.  This is one of the benefits of improved social skills – and being a Norwegian it was scaled, gutted and in the freezer in no time. 

By now William was talking to anyone and everyone including some mountain bike enthusiasts who recommended going to Derby (pronounced Durbey).

This is the mountain bike capital of Australia. When we arrived, we managed to find another  great spot down by the river (again free).

Monday Feb 12th William did 2 of the bike tracks (level 1 and level 2) the top rating is level 6. I passed on the tracks (still had a sore hip from the Wineglass Bay walk) and mooched around and read.

In the evening we went to the only place open – a wine and pizza place. It’s was obvious that the whole town  just revolves around mountain biking, they certainly can’t cook pizza or have any idea how a CBA card terminal works. Everyone, including us, got the wrong bill.. 

Derby Camp Site

We thought Derby was rather a nice place and possibly a nice place to bring up  chickens and bees. Probably very cold in the winter and was described by a Tasmania we got talking to as “rough”.

Books Finished – Keep the Aspidistra Flying
Books Started – Thatcher stole my trousers – Alexi Sayle

Tuesday/Wednesday Feb 13th/14th . From Derby we moved on to Launceston (Tasmania’s second city). Another great campsite 5kms outside the city. The place is called Old Mac’s Campsite and has animals, sheep, cows and llamas, and a great cafe.

Unfortunately the weather was terrible, so bad I didn’t leave the van because of gale force winds, didn’t even manage to get into Launceston so have no idea what it’s like. William ventured in but didn’t stay long. 

To date my Scrabble performance was acceptable – hadn’t actually lost any matches since the great disaster of Feb 6th but this night I lost by almost 100 points and I have no excuses other than Williams incredible luck and my poor spelling.

Thursday /Friday 15th/16th Feb – Moved on to Devonport in preparation to catch the ferry on the 17th. 

In the afternoon we both went looking for a barber. Neither of us had had a haircut since leaving Sydney early January and I hadn’t shaved – we were both looking kind of woolly.

Managed to find a suitable place and had the usual content free conversation and then Willy got the family question “are you two family?” the next one is usually  “am I Willy’s father”[*]. Willy decided to head this one off immediately and said we were married. Surprisingly no one missed a beat which is quite surprising considering this is Uncle Otto’s nephew, Senator Eric Abetz country.  Probably they discussed it after we left – hope so we don’t want to become mainstream…

[*]amuses him but pisses me off….

Dinner was eating our way through the freezer. Gas has to be off for the ferry so it’s prawns and Ice Cream for dinner.

Took it very easy on the Friday, weather still not great. I went shopping in the morning, did the shopping and then decided that the queues at the check-outs were too long so abandoned the basket. Interestingly there are very few DIY checkouts in Tasmania – what can it mean?

In the afternoon went to see  “Three Billboards” – William was doing things around the van.

When I got back to the van I had to Google the movie  to make sure what I saw was as the makers intended.  The last scene left me totally perplexed. Fortunately Google confirmed I had not mis-understood and I was spot on in my interpretation.

It was a good movie and worth seeing if only to see if you can do any better than the Google explanation. 

Went out for dinner at the local Surf Club -which turned out to be very good. This was followed by an early night as we had to be at the ferry terminal at 7.30 the next morning.

Up bright and early to catch the ferry, it happened to be the day of the Devonport Triathlon. 

We are due to arrive in Port Melbourne at 18:30 (it’s now 17:00) . Spending  the night in a local Caravan Park not too far from the CBD.

We have both managed to sleep most of the crossing so may wander in to Melbourne….

For anyone interested – Lisa (the cat) is extremely well and likes living in  Wagga Wagga